![]() ![]() It seems to be exactly the same as the dealers use and it's kept bang up to date with commonly occuring known faults etc. For 4 Euros an hour you get unlimited access to all service documentation for you exact vehicle. This is the official place for VW group workshop info. Must recommend website to anyone who's not been there. Studying the manual now to make sure I don't **** the job up. After another year or so it may be possible to get these injectors refurbed - hopefully for a bit less than £540!! Spoke to an injector refurbishers in Yorkshire who said for the first few years the manufacturers (in this case Siemens) don't release parts to protect the dealers interests. I'm sure Audi could charge less for the exchange units even if the new ones are dear. ![]() So the labour is £330 for an injector swap. Let's see if this turns out to be a good or bad idea? Took this route after asking local dealer for prices today. I'll be putting them into practice.īought a secondhand injector from Germany today. In the past few months a couple of folks have sold ones which they bought at full wak and didn't need as loom was only fault in the end - typically fetched £150. Best at moment is 250 euros new from Germany with my part code. Planning to use Erwin online manuals for info. I've read there are stretch bolts to replace etc. Then if there's a next time it won't be such a big deal. Thinking of taking it steady and putting new one in myself. Thanks for confirming no special tool for connectors. Second cylinder from front (is it 2 or 3) is the one with resistance to ground (170 Ohms). To prevent renewed resistance when replacing a pump/injector element also replace the wiring loom for the elements in the cylinder head Replace the pump/injector element on which you can measure a resistance (short circuit to earth). On every element measure the resistance between a pin of the connector and the element housing. Remove the cylinder head cover and disconnect the 2pin connectors from all pump/injector elements. Its one or more of the injectors and when one fails so the circuit fails, use long nose pliers to remove the plugs7781 Puzzling thing is the car has done 140k, all injectors are original (date coded) and I've had the car just 500miles. I suspect there should be no circuit to ground on any of the injectors. On one pair, the return wire has a connection to ground, the other pair is not grounded. The return wire for each is connected in pairs. All four have same resistance which looks good. I have measured the resistance of the injectors from the connector at the end of the engine block. Anyone know how to disconnect without it? The connector on my injectors is tiny - about 8mm x 6mm - and should pull off vertically. I suspect there is a fancy tool for this. ![]() There is some kind of latch that I can't release and I don't want to break the plastic. Problem at the moment is how to pull connectors off the injectors. Engine should run with faulty one disconnected but not when all four connected. something to do with injector electrics?Ġ04160 - supply voltage A for injectors circuit malfunction P1040 - 006 short to plus intermittent, freq 2, 1856rpmĠ08518 - supply voltage for fuel injector grp A : Open circuit P2146 - 009 - open or short to ground intermittent, freq 9Ī8 tech advised disconnecting one injector at a time. ![]()
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